I Hate My Car

[JaneV2.0]

The saleswoman didn't seem interested in my business. She only was interested in selling me what she had on the lot. I said I understood she did not have the model I am interested in this time but could she get me the trunk measurements but she refused. There are other dealers within a 100 mile radius that have it and if she had initiative she could transfer the car in and sell it to me. I already test drove the hatchback last year, I just want some specs on the sedan.

Meantime I called the mechanic to cancel the brakes for now and just focus on the oil light. This went very well. I had asked the previous mechanic about a heavier grade oil now that the car is older and he pooh poohed my idea but this guy came up with it himself. I am going to replace the sensor regardless. He said they recently did this on another vehicle and it worked. It is $73.00. I go in Saturday.

This website looks like it might be helpful: https://www.automobiledimension.com/...imensions.html

[Yppej]

Thanks Jane.

[Yppej]

I had the oil pressure sensor aka the sender replaced over the weekend. Today I drove enough to see was the problem fixed. A few times on the way to work and the way home I thought maybe the oil pressure light briefly flashed but I couldn't be sure as my eyes were on the road. As I approached my house I slowed down and really paid attention. The light did flash for a split second when I turned a corner. However, when I was idling at a red light and also in park in my driveway it did not come on at all although the car was warmed up from almost an hour's driving. Previously it would blink rapidly when warmed up and idling. So the repair made things better but maybe there is still something wrong with something expensive like the oil pump.

If I take the car to inspection it could probably pass as I would not run it any distance beforehand but if it's a bad pump who knows how long it would last after that, and I would have to put money into brakes and likely calipers to get it to pass. It is hard to know what to do. The engine temperature is fine and it isn't any noisier than usual which are the other signs of pump problems. The mechanic also said my oil level was fine.

My decision is do I get a new car or put more money into this one.

[SteveinMN]

My decision is do I get a new car or put more money into this one.

Well, what would it cost to fix what you know is wrong -- oil pump, brakes -- and maybe other parts your tech has identified as being on the final approach? Let's say $2,000. Is the car rusty? Is the rust more than cosmetic? Almost any new car you buy will cost you at least $400 a month in payments for 4-5 years and that's if you're buying a small entry level vehicle. Plus higher insurance costs (though they're compensated to some extent by lower maintenance costs).

So if the car is sound otherwise, let's say you spend the $2,000 and get six more months of trouble-free ownership out of it. You've kind of broken even compared to new. If you get a year of driving without major repairs, you're ahead of the game.

No one knows for sure, of course, but I'd say it's worth keeping your current car unless yours is about to rust out in a dangerous way (like around suspension mounting points) or if the car no longer meets your needs (too small, can't get cargo into the car easily, etc.) or if you've just lost confidence in its ability to get you around without leaving you stranded. Any one of those three and you probably shouldn't throw more money into this one. But if it's just a matter of reframing expensive repairs as avoiding the cost of a new (or even new-ish) car, this is one way to look at it.

[Yppej]

I just put $544 in tires on it, if I need calipers the brakes would be $700, if it needs an pump maybe another $1000, but probably money in diagnostic charges first to determine if the pump is even the problem.

It has 122,800 miles on it and its trade-in value is probably between $2500 and $3000. If the engine dies it will be $0 is one consideration. It is not rusty.

If I can keep it running I would drop the collision when I renew so yes the insurance would be less. The car meets my needs but does cause me fear of being stranded if it breaks down. I do have the high end AAA plan but in winter sitting and waiting for them to show up is no picnic. This morning when I got to work it was 7 degrees out.

[Yppej]

I might have just found my answer:

https://www.seattletimes.com/news/fl...0be%20retained.

Flickering after a half hour of driving is my car. No way would I rebuild the engine.

[SteveinMN]

I wouldn't rebuild the engine, either. Replacing the oil sender should be only a few (!) hundred dollars -- if that's what fixes the problem. If it doesn’t, though, you're out the money and you know the remaining fix will be expensive. On the other hand, not fixing the problem likely will reduce your current trade-in value (unless you've already priced the cost of the repair into that estimate). Just filling with thicker oil may cause the engine to work harder in the cold, which isn't good for it either.

Yppej, you know the history of the car. If it's been nickling-and-diming you steadily over the years, it's probably time to let it go. Maybe postpone the decision until you get the car past inspection (or not). I've learned from my Volkswagens that they need a chunk of money every 60-70,000 miles. Some of the money is for consumables (tires, struts, "lifetime" fluids) and there's usually some weird thing that needs to be repaired (one time it was the turn-signal lever). But if I spent the money, the car generally was fine for another 60,000 miles. But that's experience won by almost 30 years of VW ownership.

If you're not comfortable with the car any more and you can swing a new car purchase without becoming "car-poor" it might be time to make the move before investing more money into this one. Tough call. Make it and don't second-guess yourself, maybe on the day you take the car to inspection.

[Yppej]

I already replaced the sender for $73.00. I made an appointment Saturday to look at Kias and to see what they would give me for a trade-in. My first choice would be a Rio but covid has disrupted production and no place in my area has 2021's only 2020's and I want full warranty on a new car and to not lose a year. Sometimes a car is technically "sold" before the buyer gets it so the dealership gets to meet sales quotas and the warranty starts at that point so that is something I have to watch out for.

My son is good at car buying - helped my parents on their second most recent purchase - so I emailed him but he hasn't responded. We are not getting along lately so I am glad to have this forum to bounce my ideas off.

[Yppej]

One consideration is the way the state inspection works. They scrape off your existing inspection sticker which is good to the end of the month. You can then pass, fail for emissions in which case a scarlet letter E sticker is put on your windshield or fail for safety in which case a scarlet letter R for reject sticker is put on your windshield. You have 10 days to fix the problem but with an R you are not supposed to drive off the lot and if you do and a cop catches you you will both get a ticket and have to have your car towed from the spot where you were pulled over. So you really are at the mercy of the inspection station. If you need a repair they can overcharge you. For this reason if I plan on keeping the car I would want to get the brakes done before the inspection. Also I usually go for my inspection on a Saturday and they will not do a big repair job like that on a weekend. What they usually tell everyone is they need new light bulbs to pass and get some money out of you that way.

[mschrisgo2]

Jeppy, I don’t recall where you live... but just an idea... my daughter recently bought a 2020 Toyota Corolla. It was a leased car, turned in at the end of the year, less than 4000 miles on it. It now has a six year, 100,000 mile warranty, and the car literally is like brand new. She paid $14,500. for it. it cost twice that much a year ago. Perhaps you have similar options where you are?

We are in California, and there are well-established dealers for lease and rental returns here.

I have tended to buy new cars, because I find something I love and then drive it until there is no hope of repairing it again, well into the 200,000 mile plus range.
but my next car will be a lease or rental return.

(This is her second. Her Hyundai Sonata had less than 10,000 miles on it when she bought it, also a lease return. It has 160,000 miles now, 10+ years later, and my grandson is happily driving it. He gave his mom $4,000 for it- the down payment on her new car.)