View Full Version : Dressmaking advice needed
So, I'm working with DD on her wedding (mid-September). I have been to a wedding dress trunk show with her, and I've watched many episodes of Say Yes to the Dress, and I've kept updated on her Pinterest boards of wedding dresses....
....and last night she asked me if I'd be willing to help her make it.
I used to LOVE to sew... I made all my high school clothes. I took a sewing class at a local fabric store (which there were lots of in the 60s). And I applied to Emerson College because I thought I wanted to be a costume designer. All that being said...
The only sewing I've done since then is some really kick-butt Halloween costumes. So I'm VERY intimidated by her request. I explained all the pitfalls. A simple sheath is probably doable, but a dress with a lot of lace and beading, not so much. The finishings will be the most difficult. Zippers and buttons and topstitching will all scream "homemade." It's going to take a lot longer than you think, and with all the other wedding tasks, do we want to risk running to David's the week before for an off-the-rack?
But she said, "Come on, Mom, it will be fun!"
My questions for you seamstresses/fabric-workers out there:
Advice?
What fabric is the most forgiving? I know that some fabrics pucker and stick to the needle.
What finishings will add elegance, not tackiness?
Zipper or buttons?
Is lace hard to work with?
Paper pattern (if they even sell them these days) or muslin?
Should we invest in a dress form?
Any other advice: things to stay away from and things that will probably work well for a wedding dress?
She is looking for a fairly rustic Vermont wedding, so she doesn't expect long trains and bling. Her look is retro--50s or even earlier--Art Nouveau/turn of the century. Or boho.
iris lilies
4-13-20, 8:47am
I watch every wedding dress show there is! But I got nothing for making your own dress. There’s so many ways I would go before making my own. There’s many BoHo dresses that are not part of the wedding industry I would look in that direction, but that’s just me.
Also, used dresses would be a possibility but since she wants something simple I really think she can find it without a lot of hoopla and sewing would be a whole lot more hoopla.
I did theatre costuming in college and made all my clothes in high school. But my skills have deteriorated over the years, for sure.
My take on it would be yes on the dress form, and yes on making a muslin prototype. Zipper or buttons would depend on design, but buttons would be my thought. I think you could do nice things with antique lace that you could probably source on ebay if stores continue to be closed, but they will probably open and you could go cool places to look. The nice things is it's a wear once kind of thing so you don't have to worry about durability and mixing old with new.
How are your daughter's skills? Can she do the actual sewing and her skills up to it?
If I were trying to help my daughter, I would probably try to find a local seamstress to help with the scary parts, but that is because my skills are not up to it. It sounds like between the two of you, you may have it covered.
I would make a muslin dress. Use a basting stitch so it is easy to pull out. Once it fits her exactly as she wants, take it apart and there is your pattern.
as far as sewing,anything is very doable. Go slow, go steady. It is not a race. It is very important to use the right thread and the right needle with the fabric she selects.
https://www.weddinggownpreservationkit.com/ultimate-guide-to-wedding-dress-fabric-types-by-season-pm-blog.html
https://www.brides.com/story/wedding-dress-fabric-terms-information
https://blog.deer-and-doe.com/9017-picking-the-right-needle-for-your-fabric/
Thread site is harder to define. Best bet is to search for thread advice once she has selected the material for the gown.
Enjoy the journey! Mom and I were going to sew mine back in 1980 but a shop was going out of business and I found one I loved for less than the cost of just the material.
From what I am reading in the news, if you can make it, you can count on it vs so many bridal shops having problems getting the dresses from their suppliers.
A simple classic sheath with a shawl or long outer jacket of a filmy fabric might give you confidence to tackle it. You will share the results, please?
I’m with Razz!
And I also agree that getting assistance from a local seamstress for the tricky bits might be something to consider.
Probably the easiest type of dress to make would be a sheath or A-line simple sleeveless dress in the bride’s length of choice, with some sort of a shawl. The shawl could easily be two sided with two different colors, if the bride wanted a pop of color. Or since shawls are so popular, buying one online would be very easy.
catherine
4-13-20, 11:38am
Thanks for the advice--enlisting a seamstress for the hard parts is a great idea.
Gardnr, thanks so much for those links!! I'm really kind of looking forward to it.
Tradd/razz, I love the idea of a shawl or outer jacket...
Here's an example of the look she's thinking of, which doesn't look THAT scary...
3159
Looks lovely. A sleeveless sheath with a sleeved sheer jacket might be an idea as well. This sounds like a fun idea.
I love the one on the left!! So beautiful.
iris lilies
4-13-20, 12:02pm
Do you all know dressmakers? I do. I cannot imagine that my dressmaker friend who makes wonderful wedding dresses, would consent to doing “just the hard parts. “
I remember being in her studio and watching her whip through a gorgeous floaty silk charmeuse fabric that was for a super skinny bride. that look was couture.
If either/both zipper and buttons scare you, and she like boho, what about lacing down the back? Then you could tighten/loosen as needed.
I think you misunderstood me, Iris. I have hired seamstresses to do things like put a zipper in a child's jacket--things I don't trust my skill level for. Seamstress, not dressmaker.
Of course your friend would not want to do this.
If either/both zipper and buttons scare you, and she like boho, what about lacing down the back? Then you could tighten/loosen as needed.
oh man, the fabric loops that would be needed are really hard to do IMO. Zipper would be much easier. The first time I needed to do an invisible zipper (4H age 14), I did it 3 practice times and then put it in my dress. LOVE LOVE LOVE basting stitch-so easy to pull out.
iris lilies
4-13-20, 3:18pm
I think you misunderstood me, Iris. I have hired seamstresses to do things like put a zipper in a child's jacket--things I don't trust my skill level for. Seamstress, not dressmaker.
Of course your friend would not want to do this.maybe. I will bet my friend as a tailor puts plenty of zippers in jackets, so maybe she would do a specific thing on a dress, a zipper. By hard bits I was picturing more multiple tasks on one garment.
mschrisgo2
4-13-20, 4:47pm
The hardest part of any of those dresses is going to be setting in the sleeves, IMHO. Zippers are easy, if you have a zipper foot. It will be crucial to have the correct thread for the fabric, then the correct needle for the thread.
Hand-baste the zipper before stitching. It takes a bit more time, but it will be worth it. I'd also hand-baste the set in sleeves.
I have made two wedding dresses, mine and my sister's plus a number of bridesmaids dresses.
Some recommendations: If you can get the dress form, that helps. I did not use a form, in my case I had my mom help and in my sister's case, she came over for fittings which wasn't real convenient.
Doing a test version in muslin is a good idea. BTW, you would not have to do the complete dress. You can just make one sleeve to get a sense of fit and length. Make your adjustments on the muslin and use as the pattern.
I used invisible zippers in both dresses. The special zipper foot you would need to purchase is inexpensive and I have found invisible zippers to be pretty foolproof as opposed to setting a standard zipper. You don't have to worry about outside stitching looking even which took me years to get right and even now I opt for an invisible zipper if I can.
If you go with bridal loops, you can purchase elastic bridal loops that make the job a lot easier. I used looping on the lace sleeves on both dresses. I had to make hand made loops on one bridesmaid dress, never again.
Hope that helps a bit.
I have made two wedding dresses, mine and my sister's plus a number of bridesmaids dresses.
Some recommendations: If you can get the dress form, that helps. I did not use a form, in my case I had my mom help and in my sister's case, she came over for fittings which wasn't real convenient.
Doing a test version in muslin is a good idea. BTW, you would not have to do the complete dress. You can just make one sleeve to get a sense of fit and length. Make your adjustments on the muslin and use as the pattern.
I used invisible zippers in both dresses. The special zipper foot you would need to purchase is inexpensive and I have found invisible zippers to be pretty foolproof as opposed to setting a standard zipper. You don't have to worry about outside stitching looking even which took me years to get right and even now I opt for an invisible zipper if I can.
If you go with bridal loops, you can purchase elastic bridal loops that make the job a lot easier. I used looping on the lace sleeves on both dresses. I had to make hand made loops on one bridesmaid dress, never again.
Hope that helps a bit.
Great tips! Thank you!!
So, DD and I had a work session last night. We sketched the design, and chose the fabrics from a pile of swatches she bought from Mood (Project Runway reference--it was so cool getting the swatches in a little Mood bag!).
For you guys who are familiar with fabric. She has chosen a 2-ply silk organza. I was planning on adding an underlining. My question:
Should I have her buy 4-ply rather than 2-ply? The skirt will be slightly gathered--not completely straight. She will have a shiffli embroidered tulle lace overlay. We don't want it to have much structure, but we also don't want it to be see-through. Will the 2-ply be enough, if it has the underlining + the tulle overlay?
So, DD and I had a work session last night. We sketched the design, and chose the fabrics from a pile of swatches she bought from Mood (Project Runway reference--it was so cool getting the swatches in a little Mood bag!).
For you guys who are familiar with fabric. She has chosen a 2-ply silk organza. I was planning on adding an underlining. My question:
Should I have her buy 4-ply rather than 2-ply? The skirt will be slightly gathered--not completely straight. She will have a shiffli embroidered tulle lace overlay. We don't want it to have much structure, but we also don't want it to be see-through. Will the 2-ply be enough, if it has the underlining + the tulle overlay?
I don't know anything about silks and plys, but I did find this thread that talks about the feel of the garment, and how that may impact what she wants?
https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/90436
catherine
7-10-20, 12:59pm
I don't know anything about silks and plys, but I did find this thread that talks about the feel of the garment, and how that may impact what she wants?
https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/90436
Thank you!! This is helpful! These fabrics aren't cheap but I know nothing about them and I don't want to make an expensive mistake!
4 ply will be heavier and have more drape. Something like crepe de chine will be more lighter and more "billowy" if that makes sense.
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