Auto Repair Adventures

[fidgiegirl]

Well, you may have seen my rather narrow thread about A/C in a 1996 Honda Accord. In investigating that issue, some other ones have come to the fore. And I haven't even opened the hood! So I thought I'd start a more broad thread to hopefully gather more advice and to just share my own learning experiences as quite a novice at auto repair.

Not sure why this particular area of DIY is calling to me right now. In the past I've always been content to leave the auto repair to the pros. Maybe it's because so many small, non-essential fixes have come at once that it feels less than risky to poke around. After all, as someone here or on Mr. Money Mustache pointed out, the A/C's already not working. Is it going to be any warmer after giving it a shot?

First issue I was going to try to address is the A/C on my DH's car. But then when I asked if he minded if I just went under the hood and checked some of the most basic things (there are some great troubleshooting lists for A/C) he got all weird. Well, then I remembered that his hood doesn't latch shut once it's been opened. He doesn't want it opened, because then it won't close. Problem #2 comes back to light.

Then, we were driving along and had a weird MN moment of needing heat on the windshield even though it's July. I twisted the knob that adjusts heat or cold and broke something inside. Turns out this is super common on his car, but he was not happy because we didn't know this in that exact moment. The knob itself broke, but something deeper inside is stickin', which is what made it break (plus it's 16 years old). So I have some lists of things to check for that.

So right now our 3 problems are:

Hood latch
Temperature blend function (crucial before winter - if I have no success, then it goes to mechanic)
A/C

We are going to work on the hood today, I hope. Some automotive boards recommended a cleaner called PB Blaster and a silicone grease or white lithium grease as a first step. The latch itself should be cleaned as well as the release cable's housing. I am hoping a thorough cleaning will fix it all up, but it might be the release cable sticking or stretched. I really hope not as that truly may be beyond my DIY powers to replace. A wheel has to come off on his particular car to get it done.

While the hood's open I'll take a look at some of the temperature blend issues. Of about 4 things to check, though, if I remember correctly, only one is under the hood. The rest are behind the dash! Doh!

We'll see if we get as far as checking any of the A/C stuff.

Ideas welcome, and your own auto repair success stories. I need some confidence here.

[fidgiegirl]

Fixed the hood latch, or at least well enough.

Use the PB Blaster spray and Q tips to clean it out. Once clean, I sprayed the h*ll out of it with white lithium grease. Diagrams online had helped me see how it works, and I could see that as predicted, the part pulled by the cable (from inside the car) wasn't retracting once the hood was popped. It still doesn't on its own, but it is moving better now and we are clear and where to press with the screwdriver to get it to re-latch. It does so easily. Ideal? No. But saved us having to have the cable replaced, and we feel a lot better about doing the other work on the car.

Success on count 1! On to more!

[artist]

Had same problem and DW-40 helped make it a little better as well.



Fixed the hood latch, or at least well enough.

Use the PB Blaster spray and Q tips to clean it out. Once clean, I sprayed the h*ll out of it with white lithium grease. Diagrams online had helped me see how it works, and I could see that as predicted, the part pulled by the cable (from inside the car) wasn't retracting once the hood was popped. It still doesn't on its own, but it is moving better now and we are clear and where to press with the screwdriver to get it to re-latch. It does so easily. Ideal? No. But saved us having to have the cable replaced, and we feel a lot better about doing the other work on the car.

Success on count 1! On to more!

[bunnys]

I think there is a series of auto repair books published so that you can do all the work on your own car. I can't remember the name of this series but they publish a book for each make/model but not every year, just when it changes.

Anyway I think they're about $25 each and you would be well advised to actually purchase the book for your particular car that way you can do all the repairs.

Just looked up the books. The brand is Chilton.

[fidgiegirl]

Yes, I have Chilton and Haynes guides on the way from the library, just not there yet. Thanks for the idea!

I think we lubed up the valve that will control the heat. I am 95% sure that that issue is fixed, but we'll see once we have a new knob if it's turning nicer and adjusting heat as well.

The A/C has me a little more stumped. I am using this tutorial http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2793650&highlight=heater+control+knob (DIY #3 - electrical) because one of the fans is not coming on when the A/C is on. But I got stumped about the part with the switch. All the fuses look ok, though.

Our cooling fan didn't come on right away but we're not having trouble with overheating, so I assume that one is ok and will run when it's hot enough.

Bolstered by those other successes, though, I am going to keep trying . . .

[Maxamillion]

That's awesome that you're working on some of the repairs yourself. I've started trying to do some minor things on my own car. Back in the spring I replaced the thermostat. I went on Youtube and watched a couple of videos there, which helped a lot. And I finally ordered a Haynes manuel for my car.

Next month I want to tackle changing the spark plugs and/or spark plug wires; I'm not sure if I'll have the money to do both though. I've also got to buy the piece for changing spark plugs that goes on the socket wrench. I might need a new ignition coil and the mechanic said I could probably change that out myself. Occasionally I have trouble, when trying to start up, with the car wanting to go dead when I let up off the gas--the mechanic said it's not getting enough fuel pressure and may need a new fuel pump too, but I just can't afford that right now.

[SteveinMN]

Nice victory, Kelli! Cars today are incredibly complicated, but many repairs are do-able, especially if someone who's done it can lead you through like that honda-tech DIY.

What's the problem you're having with the switch? How to short/jump it?

[fidgiegirl]

Thanks, all! Maxamillion, best of luck going forward. I hope you will keep us updated on your progress.

Steve - yep. He said to put a paperclip in it, but I don't get why, and if I do it with the car running, or not with the car running and then I start it up. I also don't get the point of it. To see if the switch is bad, but how does that show anything?

Does a cooling fan run all the time? Or just when the engine is starting to get too hot? Mine in my Vibe came on immediately when I started the car. Bryce's didn't come on in his Honda even after a 5 mile drive or so.

[Maxamillion]

My car has two fans. The electric cooling fan on it is supposed to come on either when it reaches a certain high temperature (to keep the car from overheating) or when the air conditioner is on (I think it has to be on maximum for the fan to come on, but I'm not sure). Having it only come on during certain times is supposed to improve engine performance iirc. Then there's the manual fan, which stays on all the time. I've had trouble with both of mine recently, had to get a new fan clutch for the manual one and a new temp sensor for the electric one.

[Mcrockett]

Kelli,

Id first determine if the a/c compressor is running, do this by locating the compressor, verify that the a/c is in the on position and look at the "pulley end" of the compressor to determine if it is turning (not the pulley but the center section).
If you find that it is turning intermittently in short cycles it is likely that the system is low on refrigerant. This refrigerant does not "disappear" without a leak of some sort. It's possible that the leak is very small / slow and a quick recharge could get you through the summer.

If you find that it's not spinning at all it's likely that the system is very low or empty due to a larger leak. If that is the case and you can get your hands on a set go gauges and an evacuation pump I can talk you through the "evacuation, leak test and recharge" procedure.

[SteveinMN]

Kelli, he's having you short-circuit that switch. If things work when the switch is short-circuited, then there is a problem with the switch (it's breaking electrical continuity) and it needs to be replaced. The car will have to be on to test but please don't apply the paperclip while the car is on; that metal will be electrically live (I don't mean to be pedantic; it just would be really bad to lose you from here). In fact, you probably should not rest that paperclip against anything metal in the car while current may be running through it.

Does that help?

[fidgiegirl]

Yes. That was my feeling about it but the guys on those forums already have this underlying knowledge plus it was an old thread and inactive so I couldn't ask him directly. A big help! Thank you!

What about the cooling fan?

[Mcrockett]

The cooling fan will generally only cycle when the engine reaches operating temperature or the a/c is on. If its not coming on it could be a sign of a related a/c issue. It's very possible that he fan and a/c clutch are on the same circuit.
Id start by finding the fuse for the cooling fan if it's operation is questionable.

[mikeymartin1979]

Have you searched YouTube for a good tutorial? I find it extremely helpful for a lot of DIY projects, including auto repair. Hope you get it all fixed up! :)